• The geometric bob is sharp, architectural, and defined by clean angles—think precision lines and modernist design.
  • In general, it works best on oval, square, and heart-shaped faces with straight or slightly wavy hair.
  • This isn’t a low-maintenance style. It requires blow-drying or straightening for razor-sharp edges, plus shine spray for that glossy, sculptural finish.

We all know and love the bob. But what it may lack in length, it makes up for in versatility. Italian bob? Been there, done that. Bottleneck bob? Nailed it! Geometric bob? Behold...

The geometric bob first rose to fame in the 1960s thanks to the mod shift and its pioneer, hairstylist Vidal Sassoon. And while that was six decades ago, the hairstyle is still very much in fashion today, making it one of the most iconic haircuts in history. So, to give us the lowdown on everything there is to know, we spoke to no better team than the Sassoon squad themselves to explain what the geometric style is, who it's best suited to, and why you need to try it now! Not to mention our very own curation of inspiration pics to take to your next salon appointment—you're welcome.

Below, Mark Hayes, senior international creative director at House of Sassoon, explains all.

What is a geometric bob?

Before the man, the myth, the legend, Vidal Sassoon, women's hair often meant weekly salon sets, backcombing, and a lot of hairspray. In 1963, however, Mark says Vidal changed everything. "He did this by introducing a sharp, architectural bob defined by clean angles, sculptural lines, and pure geometry – almost like wearable modernist design," he explains.

"Because of its striking shape," Mark adds, "it’s sometimes also called the 'five-point cut' (after one of Sassoon’s most famous variations)." This version features two distinct points at the ears and a 'W' shape at the nape of the neck; however, the modern geometric bob has since evolved into many different (and more wearable) interpretations.

A perfect example of the geometric five-point cut (done by Vidal himself, ofc) is Mary Quant's iconic look à la 1964.

micro bobpinterest
Antonia Hille//Getty Images

"Today, the hallmark of the cut is precision," Mark says. Think: sharp edges, a strong outline, and hair that naturally falls into shape without the need for endless styling.

Who is the geometric bob best suited to?

The geometric bob is all about balance and emphasis, which, in turn, will bring harmony to certain facial features. Enter: The face shape debate!

Mark highlights that the geometric bob does work better for certain face shapes than others; "It looks beautifully on oval, square, and heart-shaped faces because the crisp lines highlight cheekbones and jawlines, adding structure and drama."

Rounder face shapes, however, may also want to consider a slightly longer version or pair the cut with styling tweaks. This is because Mark says, "the sharp angles can exaggerate roundness."

In terms of texture, straight or slightly wavy hair shows off the geometry of the cut best. As Mark previously mentioned, the cut relies on the natural fall of the hair to hold that architectural line. And in relation to this, in terms of hair type, Mark says: "Fine to medium hair types tend to be ideal, as the precision cutting technique creates the illusion of density and shape."

Most importantly, however, the geometric bob suits someone with the confidence to wear it because, as we now know, it's less about softness and more about bold, structured confidence. As Sassoon himself said, "If you don’t look good, we don’t look good"!

How to style a geometric bob

When it comes to styling and maintaining the geometric bob, we've got good news and bad news. "The geometric bob is high-impact, so it isn't always the best choice for those who prefer low-maintenance, wash-and-go softness," Mark says. If you have very curly or highly textured hair, it's going to take some heat styling to make the look appear crisp. That said, Mark adds that "modern adaptations can work if you want a more sculptural curl-friendly version."

For a sleek finish, Mark recommends blow-drying the hair with a round brush to emphasise the curve under the chin, or using a straightener to accentuate the razor-sharp edges. "Add a light serum or shine spray to highlight the glassy, sculptural surface," he notes.

Geometric bob inspo

bob with bangspinterest
Matteo Valle//LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
short bob hairstylespinterest
Gianluca Palma//LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
Headshot of Lia Mappoura
Lia Mappoura
Beauty Writer

 Lia Mappoura (she/her) is the Beauty Writer at Cosmopolitan UK. Covering everything from viral celebrity hair and makeup news to the latest trend predictions, she’s an expert in recognising the season’s next big beauty look (before it ends up all over your social media feeds). You’ll usually find her putting TikTok’s recent beauty hacks to the Hype Test, challenging the gender-makeup binary and social stereotypes, or fangirling over the time Kourtney Kardashian viewed her Instagram Story (yes, it’s true). Find her also on LinkedIn.